Life Overseas

Imagine walking off a white, sandy, almost deserted beach and within minutes be floating over a marine wonderland? The coral formations are spectacular and you are surrounded by an amazing variety of spectacularly coloured tropical fish.

Best of all, you may have it all to yourself, it’s easy to reach and it’s free.

Where is this virtually unknown secret place?

The Ningaloo Reef is part of the Ningaloo Marine Park, a 160km reef off the North West coast Australia. It is one of the closest fringing coral reefs in the world and is easily reached by car from the town of Exmouth, just a short distance away.

It is also braced for a surge in visitors if the United Nations World Heritage Committee agrees to place Ningaloo on its list of the world’s most valuable cultural and natural wonders and it is granted World Heritage status.

While this may be great for tourism, there is a danger that this sensitive and beautiful ecosystem may lose one of its greatest assets. The fact that you share this beautiful part of Australia with so few.

How does it compare to the Great Barrier Reef?

The Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Queensland is world famous for its coral formations and variety of tropical fish. But the price of fame is the crowds. You will be sharing this magical place with hundreds of other tourists.

Parts of the Great Barrier Reef in Queensland can be up to 60 km from the coast. This means a long and expensive ferry ride before spending time on a pontoon anchored in the middle of the ocean. On windy days, it can be an unpleasant experience.

I took a trip to the outer reef on a large ferry from Port Douglas in North Queensland. I loved the whole experience. The ferry was comfortable, the food superb and the organization, excellent.

But the coral was disappointing and the tiny pontoon out in the middle of the Coral Sea was crammed with tourists.

By contrast, on the day I visited Turquoise Bay on the Ningaloo Reef, I shared the champagne clear warm water, pristine coral and brilliant tropical fish with just 3 others.

We hired a car at Exmouth and virtually had the place to ourselves.

There were no time restrictions and we enjoyed a full day drifting over the coral reef less than 100 metres from the beach. It was a true back to nature eco experience.

You can virtually “step off the beach” and be swimming, diving or snorkeling over spectacular coral formations and brightly colored small fish within minutes. It has been called Western Australia’s “barrier reef without the barrier”

What can you see?

Ningaloo Marine Park is home to more than 500 species of fish and 250 coral species. It is one of the world’s most pristine ecosystems and is one of the few major coral reefs that you can  paddle to straight from the beach.

 Famous oceanographer Jacques Cousteau rated the coral and marine life at Ningaloo Reef as superior to the Great Barrier Reef.

The Ningaloo Reef is one of the premier spots in the world for watching whale sharks. These gentle giants of the sea visit the reef between April and July every year. You can enjoy the rare privilege of sharing the ocean with these creatures by being part of an organized tour.

To put your mind at rest, they are sometimes called “the word’s largest fish” and their staple diet is krill, not humans. Reaching 18 metres in length, the huge beast resembles a bus under water. It can be an imposing, even frightening sight when viewed from close quarters.

How do you get there?

The nearest town is Exmouth, on North West Cape, about 1270km north of Perth. It is regularly serviced by daily buses and flights from Perth.

Tours and accommodation.

A number of tour groups operate from Exmouth and these can be organized through the Exmouth Tourist Bureau. If you want to visit the whale sharks, you will be better on an organized tour.

If you have your own vehicle, the beaches on the west side of the Cape Range are easily accessible. But don’t take a short cut across the top of the range unless you have a good map and a strong 4wd.

Accommodation ranges from the comfortable Youth Hostel at Exmouth to the luxurious, new Novatel Ningaloo Resort. It is within walking distance of Exmouth’s cosmopolitan bars and restaurants.